Archive for travel

world of wonders – soul of place

Posted in architecture, dreams, energy, landscape, memory, time, travel, Uncategorized with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , on February 5, 2010 by dacarc

 what is a place of wonder? why are some places full of wonder. what makes a place wonder full? 

treasure cave - cliffs of taktsang monastery, bhutan

which is more full of wonder – the creations of humanity or natural wonders? how would you choose only seven?

great buddha at kotoku-in temple, kamakura, japan

how do some places capture the essence of a culture,  an era, a civilization, an empire?

great wall of china

do places of wonder hold the power of the dreams, the collective spirit of a people?

holding sun and ocean

where are the energy lines, the intersections of spiritual resonance, epicenters of power?

borobudur and mount merapi - java, indonesia

are there places where your dreams are entwined with those that have come before?

humayun's tomb - delhi, india

i’m wandering in the world of wonders, looking for the soul of place, seeking the spirit held within our dreams.

bamboo forest - kyoto, japan

journey into night

Posted in japan, landscape, light, mountains, time, travel, Uncategorized with tags , , , , , on January 5, 2010 by dacarc

mount fuji sunset

now finally, at day’s end, spent sun-chasing over the endless blue ocean

out here, finding a more heightened sense of the moment, and the beauty it holds

reaching farther - onward – the journey continues

into the night

city of contrasts

Posted in architecture, china, travel, Uncategorized with tags , , , on March 8, 2009 by dacarc

 over the big blue, to the other side of the earth..

accross the pacific

across the pacific

a series of intense experiences in asia during the past few weeks have left me with reflections on the people, the culture, and the work – and on developing a deeper sense about what is meaningful to those that i work with and design for in this community.  i asked a young chinese colleague about her hopes and dreams for her life and her community – her answer was “I do  hope I could leverage my knowledge to beautify our city by building better space for better living, working, make more money to help out more poor people, reestablish Chinese’s image by building a good image of  myself and influence the people that have bias on Chinese people gradually….. I wish my country could be clean like Swiss, sophisticated like French, polite like Japan, open like American…”

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flow, chaos and choreography

in this city of energy, a grand chaotic choreograpy of bicycles and carts, motorcycles and people mixing with taxis, buses, cars – 17 million people…somehow a grandfather and child make their way, weaving through an intersection of thousands..

 

temple of heaven

temple of heaven

on this cold, sunny – lightly hazy morning, i walk through the gate to the temple of heaven – the scale of the compound stretches out, and on – the grounds full of tai chi groups and badminton players, a gathering of singers at the temple gate

temple gate singers

temple gate singers

the ancient places of beijing are not small – the forbidden city, the great wall, the temple of heaven – even the names are big, yet the details are intricate, carved, gilded, and richly painted

heaven's column

heaven's column

a city where the most modern international architecture sits next to ancient ruins, where newly sprung high rise residences tower next to dwindling hutong – the few remaining traditional neighborhoods give a snap-shop of life from another century. 

this is progress, and it is fast - more than half of the construction in the world during the next 5 to 10 years will be in china, and more than half the particulate matter in the air here in beijing is generated from construction sites. it is a city taking shape before our eyes. 

construction site in beijing

construction site - beijing

in the past 5 years since i have been working on projects here, there has been a great transformation.  it is overwhelming to see the pace and scale – the realization of the vision of developers and architects – while wrestling with the demands – faster, cheaper, bigger. 

heroic collective achievements – yet struggling for relevance and re-purpose less than a year after completion..

bird's nest - olympic stadium

bird's nest - olympic stadium

or already destroyed before even being completed – the burned-out shell behind cctv towers..

cctv - construction and destruction

cctv - construction and destruction

in the old warehouse district 798 converted to art galleries, shops and cafes, the young and fashionable stroll past new imigrants, their sun-drenched skin and large woven-plastic duffle bags holding all the hopes and dreams of their families back home in the country
industrial re-use

industrial re-use

beijing 798 warehouse galleries

beijing 798 galleries

a stunning city of contrasts

the richness of the marketplace

Posted in architecture, bhutan, japan, java, morocco, mountains, retail design, scent, senses, travel, turkey with tags , , , , , on January 21, 2009 by dacarc

there are places that are powerfully magnetic -

forests, for their dark earthy scents, filtered light patterned canopies and mysterious layered sounds..

kyoto - bamboo forest

kyoto - bamboo forest

java - merapi

java - merapi

java - merapi jungle

java - merapi jungle

mountains for their high view, crystaline air and physical challenges – and the power and force of their creation and ongoing evolution..

himalaya

himalaya

mt. st. helens - 2008

mt. st. helens - 2008

merapi - march 2006

merapi - march 2006

spiritual places for the sacred energy, celestial light, soaring volume, echoing chants, and feats of architecture - from the mosques of istanbul and morocco, the temples of kyoto and bhutan, and the cathedrals of europe..

istanbul - 2008

istanbul - 2008

instanbul mosque

instanbul mosque

aya sofia - istanbul

aya sofia - istanbul

kyoto - kiyomizu temple

kyoto - kiyomizu temple

bhutan - takstang monastery

bhutan - takstang monastery

duomo di siena

duomo di siena

and in all this exploring that i love to do, i am always drawn to the richness of the marketplace. 

what makes these captivating places so dynamic, so full of energy, discovery, inspiration? 

grand bazaar - istanbul

grand bazaar - istanbul

the people – creatively displaying the fruition of all their hard work, and those that are seeking a discovery.  it is the public living room of the community – the best place to experience the diversity and connection to a culture in any place on the planet.

berber market - atlas mountains

berber market - atlas mountains

delhi - chandni chowk

delhi - chandni chowk

marrakech - nutshop

marrakech - nutshop

the craft – what is made, how it is displayed, the care in which the shop is curated.

instanbul - textile shop

instanbul - textile shop

delhi - chandni chowk shopkeeper

delhi - chandni chowk shopkeeper

the richness of the sensory experience – scents – food, leather, flowers, tobacco, spices – colors – brilliant arrays of fruits and vegetables, vibrant patterns and materials in a vast saturated spectrum – sounds – the shopkeepers calls, intimate chatting, collective sighs, calls to prayer – textures – woven textiles, hammered and etched metals, smooth pottery, ancient cobblestones. 

marrakech souk

marrakech souk

marrakech souk

marrakech souk

spice market - istanbul

spice market - istanbul

marrakech souk - blankets

marrakech souk - blankets

From the berber markets in the foothills of the Atlas mountains, and the souks of Marrakech, to the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul and Chandni Chowk in Delhi, from the Pike Place Market in Seattle to the food markets of central Java – there is a universal language.  From the line of time back to nomadic trade routes and crossroads, to the modern day markets of urban cities – it is the fabric of human life, the celebration of human connections, the epicenter of human creative spirit – the marketplace.

istanbul - spice market

istanbul - spice market

berber market - atlas mountains

berber market - atlas mountains

working on the design of retail spaces, i’m learning to infuse that sensorial richness, layered experience, and inspiring memory of these places.

dac @home in the pike place market

moroccan architecture – light, texture, color, and detail

Posted in architecture, light, morocco, time, travel with tags , , , , on December 14, 2008 by dacarc

In Marrakech, after a short flight and descent of looping figure 8′s from Casablanca, there is a small hint of what is to come – the wrapping envelope of light and shadow, layered textures on every plane – though the saturation of color has been stripped away, in a modernist move, to pure white.  The effect is a striking geometry, softened by the intricate cast of shadow and light on a heavy structural diamond web.

marrakech airport - arrival hall

marrakech airport - arrival hall

marrakech airport - exterior canopy

marrakech airport - exterior canopy

 Within the old city’s original walls, the medina, it feels like travelling back in time – in some places just a century or two, in others, thousands of years. This was a crossroads of trade routes – from the original Berber tribes in the nearby Atlas mountains, the blue-robed south Saharan Tuaregs, to the Atlantic.  Other than the city walls, only one small fragment of the original city remains – the mosque dome of Koubba El-Badiyin – the origins of Moorish building and the basis of North African architecture.

marrakech - koubba el-badiyin mosque

marrakech - koubba el-badiyin mosque

koubba el-badiyin mosque

koubba el-badiyin mosque

A series of dynasties have since left traditions of incredible richness in the skill and craft of architecture – in palaces, tombs, schools, and mosques.  Even today, the highly detailed cut tile mosaics, carved and painted wood panels and cut plaster are all created by hand.  There are an endless number of details and textures wrapping every surface, a complete enveloping of beauty in color and pattern.  The French also left a tradition that continues – all buildings are pink – and the variations of hue are infinite, and especially beautiful in the late afternoon sun, as the city and people glow in the reflected shades of cinnamon, rose and sienna.

ali ben youssef medersa

ali ben youssef medersa

ali ben youssef medersa

ali ben youssef medersa

ali ben youssef medersa

ali ben youssef medersa

 Diving in today – it’s vibrant, overwhelming in the riot and chaos of the souks and labyrinth of streets filled with hand carts, motorcycles, bicycles, donkey and horse-drawn carts, speeding Mercedes taxis, and people weaving through it all. Spice, smoke, incense.

marrakech souk

marrakech souk

marrakech souk

marrakech souk

marrakech souk

marrakech souk

 Behind the doors are the hidden calm – the riyads – traditional courtyard homes filled with hand cut mosaics, carved and painted wood paneling, lace-cut metal lamps, hand cut plaster ceilings – all with a level of intricacy that continually captivates and changes with the time of day.

riyad al moussika - marrakech

riyad al moussika - marrakech

jardin majorelle - marrakech

jardin majorelle - marrakech

 
Everything here feels like a powerful reminder of time – the line of ancient cultures, the traditions handed from generation to generation, and the light of this very moment, just for an instant.

Grateful, in Marrakech.

the hand of fatima in morocco

Posted in architecture, morocco, symbology, travel with tags , , , on December 13, 2008 by dacarc

In Istanbul a few years ago, I was exploring the amazing collection of old artwork and calligraphy in a little shop nearby the grand bazaar, and a small well-worn silver talisman caught my eye.  It looks and feels like someone has stroked it so many times that the silver has started to slowly melt.  The edges of the form of the hand have softened to an organic shape, and the pattern detail is nearly dissolved. 

talisman from istanbul

turkish talisman

I’ve worn the talisman on a silk cord around my neck since then, and kept my eye out for others like that – but I had not seen any.  Today I’m in Marrakech, and there are many of these symbols – everywhere.  Mostly they are mass produced tourist trinkets in thin stamped metal with a fake stone mounted in the center, the eye.  Nothing in the character of these objects is captivating – except for the idea that they have a powerful symbolic meaning. 

the souks of marrakech

the souks of marrakech

There is the captivation of the place – the souks – an endless labyrinth of shops.  At first it’s overwhelming – the chaos of motorcycles, bicycles, hand carts, and people of amazing diversity.  Discoveries emerge as you immerse, and go deeper – patterns, layers under layers of what is sensed, seen, tasted, scented.  The hand talisman are found in every small jewelry collection in hundreds of shops.
marrakech souk - jewelry shop

marrakech souk - jewelry shop

essaouira - souk jewelry collection

essaouira - souk jewelry collection

In this part of the world the symbol is called The Hand of Fatima, and links back beyond ancient Egypt; its meaning represents both power and protection, on the temporal plane as well as the spiritual. The hand works, it creates, it guides, it protects.  The symbol is also known as khamsa and the Eye of Fatima in Islamic tradition. The Hand of Fatima is made in the form of talisman, amulets, jewelry and architectural details. Although predating Islam, the symbol has been widely assimilated into Islamic art and popular culture.  There is also a symbolic link to the number 5, five fingers, the five pillars of Islam.

And when you keep looking you find it in more places.
marrakech - spice shop

marrakech - spice shop

And more places – as a protection…
essaouira port

essaouira port

ourika valley - the shadow of the atlas mountains

ourika valley - the shadow of the atlas mountains

And as a greeting, a way of entering…
marrakech - door

marrakech - door

All individually crafted by hand, sculpted metals with all variations of finish, texture, form, pattern, color, and composition with the door and it’s hardware – carefully displayed works of art, design, identity – punctuating the pink earth and stone walls of the city.  A small detail discovered in the amazing complexity and richness of this place. 
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112608-144
112408-158
112408-156
112408-155
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A few of them made their way home with me, along with the collection of images.  There are many meanings I think about as I study these, the hand as an eye – a way of seeing, as a way of connecting to others and to the world, as an opening of the individual spirit to the universal, as a tool of making, of loving, of being, human.
paris boutique window

paris boutique window

architecture is light

Posted in architecture, dreams, light, time, travel with tags , , , , on November 15, 2008 by dacarc

in my dreams, the substance of architecture is light.  in my life, the most powerful experience in architecture is the captivation of light in space.  the first photograph i developed in a darkroom was of heavily dusted light rays streaming into the barn loft – long before i was drawn into the profession of architecture. 

i dream of buildings – light streaking through arched clerestory windows, ice-white-blue transparent slabs opening out to stunning white peaked mountains rising out of deep blue seas, misted grey weathered columns in a green valley.  it’s always about light.

Le Corbusier’s Chapel of Nôtre Dame du Haut at Ronchamp is a dream-like world of light.  I was completely transfixed by the light-sculpting architecture of this place on my first journey through Europe.  This remote pilgrimage in the early days of my career to the eastern border of France was a life changing experience.

ronchamp chapel

ronchamp chapel - france

ronchamp chapel interior

ronchamp chapel interior

ronchamp light well

ronchamp light well

Grand Central Station in New York is a place of great power to me - the angle of light-streams project the time of day as the people of the city flow in and launch their journeys – a true portal of time and space.  A place that can captivate you in it’s state of constant change every time you return.

grand central station

grand central station - new york

The Pantheon in Rome – the circular oculus opening in the center of the dome, washing the deeply articulated coffers and intricate marble floor patterns, creating a striking connection to the astronomical cycles of our days, nights, and months – a pure focusing of light and time in space, in this place of profound power.

pantheon - rome

pantheon - rome

The Aya Sofia in Istanbul, Brunelleschi’s Duomo of Florence, Borobudur in Java, and even the absence of light in the temples of Kyoto – which in their darkness awaken a sense of deep past, the dark creating a heightened awareness of inner self by shutting out any sense of time. All of these places I’ve experienced a deep sense of my own spirit and my connection to the universal human-ness of our world.

siena museo archeologico

siena museo archeologico - italy

basilica of san domenico - siena

basilica of san domenico - siena

humayun's tomb - delhi

humayun's tomb - delhi

kiyomizu temple - kyoto

kiyomizu temple - kyoto

borabadur - java - indonesia

borobudur - java - indonesia

aya sofia - istanbul

aya sofia - istanbul

Junichiro Tanizaki’s “In Praise of Shadows” is the most powerful writing on light in architecture - “find beauty not in the thing itself but in the patterns of shadows, the light and the darkness, that one thing another creates.” Just as light creates architecture – the substance of architecture is light.  the power of light in architecture is not only in spiritual places – indegenous farmhouses in bhutan, simple barns in eastern washington, the seattle public library – there are modern buildings that capture the power of light in space, many that do not. 

haa valley farmhouse - bhutan

haa valley farmhouse - bhutan

barn window - spokane

barn window - spokane

seattle public library

seattle public library

 

in Tanizaki’s essay, he makes the case that modern spaces overlit by electrical lighting are psychologically exhausting – that the eye and psyche are drained by overlit modern environments.  I had years of discussion with my clients in Japan at Seibu and Sogo on the perception of light in their stores – typically overlit to 1200 lux and a cool 4000-4500 degrees kelvin - pretty much like a refrigerator, a morgue or a supermarket – and not the most romantic setting for the display of high fashion, beauty, accessories and home decor.

sogo osaka - light column

sogo osaka - light column

One of my clients (and friend) in Japan, Mr. Matsuhashi, once tried to tell me “look at my eyes, see how dark they are – we don’t perceive light the same way you do”.  I looked at him and said “look at my eyes, they are the same color as yours!”.  I finally came to understand that it was the climate and conditioning – that all the other stores were over-lit with super-cool spectrum lighting, and that is what they were accustomed to.  Terrified that if the lighting were not equally bright as the competition, they would loose shoppers.  Ultimately we came to a middle ground – 700-800 lux at 3500 degrees kelvin, which allowed us to highlight visual displays and give the eye someplace to be drawn to, and other places to rest easier.  Another common challenge with lighting in these environments is glare – light fixtures that are not properly diffused, angled, or at heights and beam angles that force the iris to contract, and dramatically reduce your ability to see anything – let alone the refined fabric, color and detail of high designer merchandise. 

What I’m exploring now more deeply in the work is the concept of natural light, it’s link to psychic and emotional response – and how that can be used both to enhance the experience, as well as reduce the usage of energy in the environments that we create.  I believe this is a path for great invention and beauty.

The most powerful and magnetic connection of the human spirit to architecture is the captivation of time – embodied in it’s materiality and use. As my son once reflected on the concept of light and time, when he was 12 years old, and pronounced “everything we see is in the past” – as he explained, because light waves take time to pass through space from the object we see – all the we see is reflected light, from the past.

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sir john soane – architect, archeologist, explorer

Posted in architecture, london, time, travel with tags , , , , , on November 2, 2008 by dacarc

 

 

sir john soane facade - london

sir john soane facade - london

Approaching the façade, even on a day when there are no huddled wind whipped clusters of visitors awaiting their turn to explore this architect’s legacy, you can immediately sense there is something unique held within.  The architect Sir John Soane’s house, museum and library at No. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields has been a public museum since the early 19th century.

 

levitating column capitals

levitating column capitals

On closer inspection, there is a very unusual character and precise care in detail – floating column capitals and roman statues are also a hint that this place is not quite an ordinary London townhouse.  The limestone protrusion stands proud of the darkened row of brick homes facing Lincoln’s Inn Fields.  Still, you cannot possibly imagine the world inside.  Across the threshold and through the security sequence (where cameras are noted to be strictly forbidden), you are enveloped in the most stunning world – preserved now as a museum – and you feel immediately transported back in time, nearly 200 years.

 

stairwell - sir john soane

stairwell - sir john soane

In 1833 Soane negotiated an Act of Parliament to settle and preserve the house and collection for the benefit of ‘amateurs and students’ in architecture, painting and sculpture. On his death in 1837 the Act came into force, vesting the Museum in a board of Trustees who were to continue to uphold Soane’s own aims and objectives. A crucial part of their brief was to maintain the fabric of the Museum, keeping it ‘as nearly as circumstances will admit in the state’ in which it was left at the time of Soane’s death in 1837.

dome room - sir john soane

dome room - sir john soane

The collections are vast – antiquities, sculpture, painting, architectural drawings, casts, objects – even more stunning are the way they are arranged, and the architecture that he created to dispay them.  It seems impossible, as if the entire world in the past few thousand years is captured in this unassuming townhome in the middle of London.  Here is just an opening list of some of the objects held within:

Egyptian and Graeco-Egyptian antiquities: 38
Greek and Roman marbles including architectural and decorative fragments (candelabra, furniture, ornaments etc.), major frieze and relief fragments, Greek votive and funeral reliefs, sarcophagus fragments, cinerary urns, funerary vases and statuary (including fragments, figures, heads and busts): 413
Greek and Roman bronzes: 31
Greek and Roman terracottas, mosaics and miscellaneous: 47
Greek and Roman vases: 59
Gems (Egyptian scarabs; Greek & Roman provincial, Hellenistic, Etruscan, Roman, Early Christian, Medieval, Renaissance, Neo-Classical & miscellaneous gems): 323
Engraved seals: 202
Medieval objects (including architectural fragments, fragments of woodcarving, tiles, pottery, glass & miscellaneous items): 70
Italian and Northern Renaissance bronzes (figures & plaques): 24

oculus - sir john soane

oculus - sir john soane

Every space, no matter how small, is stuffed, spilling over with treasures – and every room, some of the most intimate scale, uniquely captures light.  There are the thinnest slivers of openings to skylights 2 floors above, or tiny oculus, or windows wrapped around small carved out inner courtyards in the most amazing orchestration and articulation of proportion, scale and light. 
courtyard window - sir john soane

courtyard window - sir john soane

roman sculpture - sir john soane

roman sculpture - sir john soane

collections - sir john soane

collections - sir john soane

All of these images were shot under the watchful eye of guards enforcing the no photo rules – with no flash, of course, and from the hip.

light well - sir john soane

light well - sir john soane

drawing exhibit - sir john soane gallery

drawing exhibit - sir john soane gallery

When I have another free moment in London, this will be the first place I will go.  This world is an endless cabinet of curiousities, source of sheer amazement and inspiration, and portal into another time.  My highest recommendation to anyone with any interest in architecture, design, art, beauty and light. 

Check it out.

http://www.soane.org/index.html

 

 

trees, architecture + magic

Posted in architecture, dreams, japan, java, landscape, retail design, symbology, time, travel, trees with tags , , , , , , , , , , , , on November 2, 2008 by dacarc

This spring, some generous and inspirational colleagues of mine asked me to participate in a creative event – Pecha Kucha – “chit chat” in Japanese – a rolling simultaneous global event happening in cities like tokyo, berlin, paris, sydney, seattle.  Artists, designers, architects, and all creative spirits gather and share their inspiration – in a presentation of 20 slides, 20 seconds per slide – 6 minutes and 40 seconds.  That’s it – everything else is up to you.  I savored the opportunity to talk about my love of trees and architecture, and here is just the beginning – just the 6 minutes and 40 seconds, more, to come..

treespirit
treespirit

My earliest and deepest childhood memories are entwined with trees.  I remember wandering through the forest for hours, tumbling down ravines and inhaling the fragrance of deep forest earth.  I remember climbing to the tops of young birch saplings to see how flexible and resilient they could be, before they might snap.  This is where I spent my first 6 years, in the richly layered forest of our 20 acres.

 

aspen dew - sun valley
aspen dew – sun valley

I spent hours observing the world from our tree-house in the backyard garden, watching spiders weave their web-nets between the branches.  And there was gazing at the sky through tree-canopies and their endless patterns and interactions with light.  By the time I was 5 years old, after my first attraction to the color red (as in red shiny shoes and ribbons and dresses), green was imbued into the color of my spirit – the green of a broad newly sprung leaf backlit by sunlight. 

 

bird catcher - bali
bird catcher – bali

The woods were full of wonder, but there was a darkness there, too – an element of danger – there was an old man living in a log cabin (a tree structure), in one of the patches of forest in “the murmuring pines” suburb of Portland where we moved to when I was 6 years old. There were so many things I learned and explored within the canopy of those murmurings.  There were mysterious rustlings, unseen creatures, and spiders, too. 

 

fir forest - decatur
fir forest – decatur

There was also the story of why my grandfather was missing 2 fingers from his right hand – from the falling of a widow-maker branch on his hand while he was carrying an axe on his shoulder, having finished a day of logging trees in Ryderwood, Washington – the logging town where my father was born, and only a few miles from my own birthplace of Castle Rock, Washington.

 

cascade fir-spirits
cascade fir-spirits

I had spent hours being coerced to sit in church every Sunday, but I was daydreaming about the forest while the sermon droned on endlessly, about why anyone who wasn’t in church that day was going to burn in hell – I was magnetized by the graceful arches of bent beam timbers overhead, and framed the stained glass windows – like that sunlight through tree canopies. 

 

tree heart - decatur gloaming
tree heart – decatur gloaming

I never really felt closer to god in church, but I was always drawn to that magical meeting of the highest reach of the tree to the sky. There was a book I read about the life story of a 1000 year old tree, written in the tree’s voice, and that fed my imagination that trees were old, enlightened beings, that I would eventually become a tree.

 

ents! lord of the rings
ents! lord of the rings

Then I studied more, and played more, with trees.  I climbed them, jumped out of them, swung off of them, inhaled them, kissed under them, listened to them, and created fantasy worlds within them.  Stories like the Lord of the Rings, where the Ents (ancient tree spirits) could be aroused and become mobilized armies

 

fig trunk - delhi, india

fig trunk - delhi, india

and the wizard of oz where they could be evil and attack you, but trees only seem to go to war in retaliation for your abuse and assumption that they were yours to pick from. And then there was heartbreaking story “the giving tree” by shel silverstein, the story of a boy whose life consumes the tree, slowly, until he is an old man sitting on the stump that is left, all of the giving from the tree of it’s life for his happiness, with joy.

 

enchantment lakes - north cascades
enchantment lakes – north cascades

As I made that awkward transition from girl to woman, I sought refuge under their canopies, inhaling the deep scents of cedar, pine, earth, roots.  We spent summers backpacking in the north cascades wilderness areas, dazled by the stunning beauty of larch trees and granite cathedrals.

 

mevlevi gravestone tree - istanbul
mevlevi gravestone tree – istanbul

I felt the very same pull, the force of attraction to architecture – but at first, the connection to my love of the forest, and architecture was obscure.  Maybe my career has been built on the sacrifice of trees – creating buildings from them, clearing forests for those buildings, too.  And in earlier days, there was only an underlying consciousness to the idea of sustainability. 

 

blue mosque minaret - istanbul
blue mosque minaret – istanbul

It seems that if you look for a pattern, a number, a symbol, it then appears everywhere you look.  In my studies of architectural history there were certainly obvious links to trees, forests, and architecture.  One book that makes the striking parallels is “architecture, nature and magic”, by William Lethaby -a beautiful concise book on the history and symbology of architecture.

 

aya sofia - istanbul
aya sofia – istanbul

Beginning with the concept of the world fabric, lethaby opens with our modern challenge “at the inner heart of ancient building were wonder worship magic and symbolism: the motive of ours must be human service, intelligible structure, and verifiable science.”

 

gangtey gonpa monastery - bhutan
gangtey gonpa monastery – bhutan

“agreed by competent scholars that a common early explanation of the earth and the heavens was that there was a central stem and that the revolving sky was sustained by its branches”.  The most ancient dwellings in Europe and Egypt were round structures with a central post toward which the roof would rise – cut from a tree or sometimes built around a living tree.  The idea of a column was inseparable from that of a tree.  Thus it was that columns came to have capitals of foliage and reeded stems.

 

leaf city
leaf city

And there is Paolo Portoghesi’s book “nature and architecture” there are too many references to review in 20 second – here is one example of the structural model that trees give to us in city planning – a great leap of scale from the microscopic structure of a leaf to the aerial view of this Italian city.  This book is densely packed with wonderful examples of architecture modeled from nature.

 

cherry blossoms - tokyo
cherry blossoms – tokyo

Working in Japan a few years ago, my resonance with trees and architecture became powerfully entwined.  My client was enlisted by the Japanese government and leading banks to restructure and re-birth a failing retail brand, SOGO.  One night I was whisked away from the never-ending meetings over to a long serpentine section of the ancient imperial palace grounds moat, at the peak of the cherry tree bloom – a national event celebrated by thousands.  I became partly japanese as I joined the collective sighs of thousands as a slight breeze showered blossoms over us in the up lit night sky.

 

sogo shinsaibashi - osaka
sogo shinsaibashi – osaka

I ran miles across town the next morning to wander again among the hundreds of ancient trees, and they then became a symbol of rebirth in both the project and my life, and in my connection to the people of Japan.  We splayed branches and blossoms over the façade, in the stone floors, the railings, layering in ginkgo leaves for the added connection to the tree-lined boulevard of Shinsaibashi, and in tying the people of the community with the symbology of rebirth, prosperity and longevity. 

 

seibu jakarta
seibu jakarta

The completion of that work led me to Jakarta, where the Indonesian owner of Seibu asked us to create a new flagship as this Japanese brand entered the market.  Surprising that an American designer is enlisted to create a Japanese store in Indonesia..

We came closer to creating the depth and layering of a forest – creating a true envelope of branches, leaves, blossoms – the effusive nature of the Indonesian culture infused this work with an energy unique to it’s people, their incredible craftsmen and willingness to make anything you could imagine. 

 

bamboo forest - kyoto
bamboo forest – kyoto

And in exploring the idea of enveloping, the forest has become a powerful symbol of the difference in form and object making, but rather creating architecture – space – environments for the human theatre of activity.  In this profound little book, “the eyes of the skin” by juhani pallasmaa, we architects are accused of creating places with frontal/object driven perception – not understanding the power of peripheral vision – and sound – like the mystical sounds of the bamboo forest in Kyoto.

 

prayer flag veil - chele la pass, bhutan
prayer flag veil – chele la pass, bhutan

I’ve spent hours fascinated with this amazing book, “the meaning of trees” by fred hagenede - the archetypes and symbology of trees are universally linked to spiritual meanings across cultures and religions all over the world.  Where would we be without eve and that apple tree?  Would we care that H.H. the Dalai Lama is coming to seattle today if the Indian prince Siddhartha Gautama hadn’t achieved enlightenment while sheltering under the bodhi tree?

 

tree and me shadow
tree and me shadow

grateful, to all who have walked along this path, who share this connection of beauty, wonder, and deep inspiration - and the love of trees.

The tree which moves some to tears of joy is in the eyes of others only a
green thing that stands in the way.  Some see Nature all ridicule and
deformity, and some scarce see Nature at all.  But to the eyes of the
man of imagination, Nature is Imagination itself.
-  William Blake, 1799, The Letters
 

 

 

 

bhutan architecture

Posted in architecture, bhutan, time, travel with tags , , , on October 25, 2008 by dacarc

haa farmhouse

haa farmhouse

In advance of my recent journey through Bhutan, in all the imagining of exploring the spirituality, culture, landscape, and connecting to the people, one of the great attractions I strongly felt in preparing for this journey was the stunning imagery I had studied of Bhutanese architecture.

nuns of kilagompa

nuns of kilagompa

I’ve been on a longer journey all over the world, always seeking to learn more about the spirit of buildings, and how they represent the vision, dreams, and imagination of the cultures that create and use them.

I was not disappointed. I was captivated, mesmerized, my eyes tried to soak in the perfect proportions, the graceful angled walls, the gently sloping, dramatically extended eaves floating overhead, the earthen and stone and solid massing and textures, the deep scents of wood, earth and smoke, the beams of light streaming through gracefully carved windows, the perfectly orchestrated rhythm and layering of fenestration, framed in stunningly intricate trimmings and woodcarvings, and the rich and effusively colored layers of decorative patterns and endlessly detailed artwork and paintings on walls, columns, eaves, doorways, friezes, the rich heavy timbered, polished and leaf-dyed floors – where I spent much time prostrating to the deities and relics held within.

monastery window

monastery window

There were many indescribably deep experiences, in this country full of richness – this land focused on holding on to its prized conception of gross national happiness.

Cliff-hung meditation huts, monasteries, nunneries, pristine rock filled riverbeds, endless tree-covered ridges, full with an amazing array of trees, plants, animals, insects, roadside water-wheels and mills, fluttering prayer flags casting hopes in the wind, terraced hillsides green with diverse crops, simple farm houses seemingly growing out of the earth.

So many wonderful connections with honest, open, warm and welcoming people – professionals, villagers, farmers, nuns, monks, lamas, schoolchildren.

The family who invited us to join their annual breakfast ritual at Taktshang, as we were the first visitors of that auspicious day, the Lama Kunzang Dorjee and his story about the animals who appeared to him in need of rescue.

The tireless, caring, articulate ministrations of our guide Tsewang Nidup, and the final coincidental flight delay which allowed us to receive a blessing from H.H. Je Khenpo.

chhoeling palace, thimphu

chhoeling palace, thimphu

Still, to me, the architecture captures the spirit of Bhutan with the most powerful and permanent impact.

It has stood over generations, holds the treasures and contains the rituals of the people and their spirituality, represents the highest expression of culture in arts and crafts, embodies the energy of the collective culture, through time.

As I walked in awe of the highest level Dzong structures and the most well-cared for temples, I was also captivated by the simplest of structures woven from bamboo, to the earthen ruins or slowly dissolving farm houses which become part of the landscape.

bumthang village

bumthang village

I remember the boiling pots over the kitchen firebox, the soft warmth of polished wood-timber floors, sliding window shutters opening to pastoral views of farmland and green hillsides. Bhutanese architecture embodies the spirit of the people – that is a unique and valuable asset to treasure and celebrate.

 In my work around the world and in developing countries I’ve seen the other future – of drive to modernization unmanaged, the extinguishing of the heart and spirit of the people and their relationship to their land, their environment, their collective culture. The modernization of Bhutan will require more time and care in designing and building new structures, or renovate existing ones, in creating infrastructure – time and energy invested to insure the future of Bhutan is truly happy, and remains truly Bhutan.

 
 
 

 

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